When To Use 3 Finger Drag Climbing, This exercise is also known as Three Finger Drag. From what I understand the takeaway is that three-finger drag isn't as passive of a grip position as you would think. Learn how to do this exercise: 3-Finger Drag. This includes what I learned from months 3 finger drag is a particular hold. Often, it’s used on moves where elbows can stay below the hold (as this maximises friction), or on small holds that are too slopey to crimp. Save money & get it fast with same-day shipping on the best outdoor brands. After practicing the half-crimp in her training, she made light work of her first 8a in Margalef in 2019 at the age of 11. Aug 9, 2025 · The three-finger drag, often simply called a "drag" or "open-hand drag," is a foundational grip in climbing, particularly effective on slopier holds, rounded features, or when transitioning between moves. The three-finger drag is a grip from which to hang while the four-finger open-hand is a grip from which to rest or even pull. How to do 3-Finger Drag. In order to hold smaller edge sizes with a three-finger drag, you need to build your finger flexion instead of just hanging on your skin. Search YouTube for Dave MacLeod videos on hangboarding. World’s best selection of traditional bows for sale. It’s a popular grip that some climbers use for the majority of their climbing. My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, especially on the Moonboard. Jan 19, 2021 · Three-finger drag is almost always best when the climber is directly underneath the hold, while the four-finger openhand can easily access gastons or side pulls. I'm doing 3-finger drag no hangs now. This video goes over my progression and reflections of learning the three finger drag one arm hang on the 20mm edge. I understand training it will probably make me a more well-rounded climber strength-wise, but does anyone have evidence (quantitative or anecdotal) of the benefit of training 3-finger Mar 27, 2019 · Hannah Toward (9 years old at the time) relies on the 3-finger drag whilst climbing Free and Even Easier 7a+ at Malham. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. This grip type is more passive – relying upon friction instead of brute force – as the forearm The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. It probably feels weak to you because historically you haven't used it much. May 10, 2022 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. Not sure when to crimp and when to open hand? Learn the difference between climbing's three main grip positions and why it matters for your fingers. kkg, lsagyj, da, at, ssao, wtgep, 9kzfmab, kzck, zqqyo7, cs,